I have not updated in a while

I have not updated in a while and will add details later for
Fuel pump, fuel line, heater and battery

Compression Test

I did a compression test on April 1, 2010 with the following results :

1. 160
2. 160
3. 155
4. 155
5. 145 160 after adding a little oil to cylinder
   
6. 160
7. 158
8. 160

This barely meets the 10% difference between cylinders so I am good to go for now.
Seven of the plugs were champion, the one in cylinder 5 was a motorcraft and was rusty. I replaced all of the plugs even though only one looked bad.

Carburetor

A piece of my carburetor does not appear to be connected. The piece that I am pointing at in the pictures just hangs loose. This is because I have a carburetor from a later year and this is for the transmission hookup which a 67 does not have. I have the original carb in a box that I may rebuild and try out to see if helps performance.

History

This car was fully restored by Mid County Mustang in Exton PA in 1985 for $7600.
Some of the receipt is hard to read due to bad hand writing or abbreviations I do not understand

The following was replaced

• LH / RH Full Floor
• LH Torque Box
• LH / RH LWR HNGES ?
• LR RR 1/4 panel
• LR RR outer wheel housing
  
• LR RR lower trunk panel
• tail light panel
• rear valance
• RF fender
• rear window W/S
• 4 outer window W/S
• Trunk weahterstrip seal
• 2 frt headlight shields
• front valance
• rear bumper and hardware
• 2 outer door handles
• front bumper and hardware
• all letters and emblems
• rear springs and shocks
• carpet
• door and ignition lockset
  

The following was repaired

• Battery Apron
• LH / RH Toe board
• LH / RH Kick-up
• RH ??? AT Idler ARM ?
• LH Inner ??? CAP
• Top of Innter fenders LH / RH
• Hood
• LF Fender
• LF RF door
• trunk lid
• frt end of rain gutters both sides
• rear upper body panel below rear window
• roof
• RS? innter w/ housing
• passenger side rear window
  

Previous owners also installed a new radiator, gas shocks in rear (not sure if this was part of restore) and heater core but I do not have receipts for this work.

Radio

I bought a Pioneer Premier DEH-P710BT single DIN radio with built in blue tooth and can control an IPod and IPhone.

For front speakers I bought kick panels with speakers holes and upgraded speakers from CJ Pony Parts.


For the back speakers I bought a new package tray to replace the tray with a single 6x9 speaker. I am saving the old speaker just in case somebody wants the original. I cut two holes in the package tray for new Alpine 6 x 9 speakers, painted it black. I put black speaker cloth over the entire package tray so the speakers are hidden.

I am waiting for a DIN radio bezel from CJ Pony Parts and will install the radio when that arrives.

Floor pans

When I removed the driver's seat I noticed some surface rust on the driver side floor pan. I used a wire brush on a drill and steel wool to remove the loose rust, applied rust remover, primed and painted. I forgot to take a before picture but here is the after picture of the driver side front floor pan


I also found surface rust when I removed the back seat to replace the package tray for rear speakers. The back passenger floor pan had rust over a large area.



The front floor plan only had a few spot where the paint appeared to be scratched off.


I used a stripping wheel on a drill and steel wool to remove the loose rust. I then applied rust reformer, primed and painted.








There was also some rust behind the passenger side kick panel

Disc Brakes

I want to convert the front brakes to disc but I would also like to keep the 14" wheels and tires that I have on here now. I read a few posts that some 14" wheels will not work when converting to disc brakes. I need to figure out if these wheels are reproduction or not to assist in figuring out what brake conversions will work